Information contained is the result of several hours work by Dennis and Tom Himes. I certainly want to give credit where it is due and they went above and beyond IMHO.
The manual I received indicated it was for an M2R version, so we were working from scratch on this one.
Out of the box the trigger is extremely light, but what we found out was that neither the first or second stage screws were even making contact with the trigger, so it was just the rocker arm doing all the work out of the box against the trigger blade.
If you don't feel comfortable working with the tube pressurized then there is a sunken hex bolt forward of the trigger that allows you to degass the pressure tube. I believe it's between the two larger screws that hold the stock on.
Take the stock off by removing the 3 larger hex screws from the under side of the stock. One is at the metal piece holding the tube and floating barrel. The other two are close to the trigger.
Once you remove the stock you can see the trigger workings a bit better and you will find it easier to work on things minus the stock.
Also, before you do anything else, if you haven't degassed then set the trigger mode to dry fire.
Remove the trigger plate/rod by loosening the one screw that this assembly attaches to.
Once removed there are two small screws used to adjust the 1st stage (forward screw) and the 2nd stage (rear screw). There is a larger screw just forward of that allowing you to adjust what we believe to be the 1st stage spring tension.
The 2nd stage is so light that you probably don't want to increase the first stage tension otherwise you won't be able to feel the 2nd stage.
Try to make all adjustments with the trigger engaged, which might bean you having to keep re-cocking it. Again, trigger test mode is best for this.
Also, you don't have to keep attaching the trigger plate/rod assembly. We found it easiest to insert the small hex tool into one of the screws and feel the tension. It wasn't until the fine-tuning at the very end that we bothered with the rod/blade assembly.
Dennis screwed in the 1st stage screw quite a bit until he felt it contacting the release blade.
Once you have the 1st stage then you can start to wind up the 2nd stage.
This trigger is very much like the Marauder trigger but a whole lot lighter.
In the end the trigger is still extremely light, but you can definitely feel the 2nd stage. And while there is a tiny bit of play in the 2nd stage I will have to use it some more to determine if I need to take out some of that play.